Monthly Archives: March 2011

Beef, and the beer that loves it

“Ooh, beef and beer!” – my initial reaction to the announcement of the IFBA and Bord Bia’s amazing From Plate To Page competition

Most of my beef-cooking adventures these days involve beer, and stout in particular. There are now myriad Irish craft stouts to rival (and surpass) the G-word, from Hilden’s Molly’s Chocolate Stout in the north to Franciscan Well’s Shandon Stout in the south. One of my favourite discoveries of late, though – and, happily, one available in bottle form – is O’Hara’s Leann Folláin from the Carlow Brewing Company. At 6% ABV, it packs quite the punch, with lovely treacle, coffee and cocoa flavours. I reckoned it would be a fair match for some aged Kildare fillet steak (from the brilliantly-staffed meat counter at Fallon & Byrne), and so on went the thinking cap.

A quick rummage in my Home Organics stash yielded some lovely red onions and Wicklow Charlotte spuds, so I settled upon the idea of a boozy red onion gravy, and creamy mash. And, with thoughts of spring in my mind, I picked up some Bretzel Bakery bread and Rush herbs, again from Fallon & Byrne, to make a fresh herby stuffing for the steak.

The ingredients

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Spring break(fast)

If, like me, you are a porridge fiend, winter breakfasts are a cinch. These past few months, I’ve had mine with handfuls of sultanas, spoonfuls of jam (and leftover mincemeat), stewed apple, cinnamon, honey… you get the picture. Porridge is great. With the arrival of glorious, bright, blossom-laden Spring, a hot breakfast isn’t quite the thing any more.

But wait! Oats can be eaten cold! Step forward Mr. Fearnley-Whittingstall, who gave me the brainwave to try cobbling together my own muesli mixture. Here’s what’s in the jar:

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Broad bean and bacon risotto, with a side of nostalgia

Our first Home Organics order arrived at Runcible Spoon HQ on Monday – and oh, what bounty! We opted for the smaller of the fruit and veg bags which, this week, contained apples, blood oranges, an avocado, a lemon, bananas, broccoli, spuds, carrots, spinach, red cabbage, broad beans and I’m sure I’ve forgotten something but suffice to say, we have been feasting all week and still have lots left over.

Possibly the best bit about Home Organics’ “mystery bag” scheme is that it keeps one on one’s culinary toes. I’d never cooked with broad beans before – all that double-podding malarkey to get to the good bit on the inside seemed a bit much for a midweek dinner, and it does take a fair bit of time – but these beans were worth the hassle. Tender, green and beautifully sweet – the perfect foil for some crispy bacon and oozy rice.

I’ve been using the same basic risotto recipe for nigh on ten years now – it’s printed on a grease-spattered piece of paper, part of an email from my gastro-whiz uncle J dated December 4th, 2001. Back then, I was just out of college, and not long cooking proper food for myself. My newish boyfriend and I had just booked our first trip away together – five days in Venice – so I suppose I wanted to impress him with my Italian cooking skills. (It must have worked as said gentleman has stuck around!)

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Paddy’s weekend bites

Midweek St. Patrick’s days are odd beasts, and despite having to work on Friday it still feels like I’ve had an extra-long weekend. Post-Inishfood tiredness meant a much-needed lie-in on Thursday morning, and, of course, a big feed. Our brunch of choice before heading out for a mooch round Phoenix Park Goatsbridge smoked trout, the award-winning (yay!) Daily Spud’s potato farls, with some sauteed spinach for token healthiness.

Thursday evening saw us adjourn to the finest pub in the city for craft beer, Bananagrams and a delicious feed of pork pies, steak, fish and chips, and Crowes’s Farm bangers and mash, and Murphy’s ice cream. No photos, alas, due to extreme hunger (and slight squiffiness).

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Inspired by Inishfood

“Find something you’re passionate about and keep tremendously interested in it.”
Julia Child

When the Irish Food Bloggers Association held their launch dinner in my local last November, I attended as a gatecrasher, a frequent food-tweeter who had thought a zillion times about starting a food blog but had never quite gotten there. Three hours and several Harringtons Classy Reds later, I was sold, bowled over by the enthusiasm and collective excitement of the group.

Fast forward four months and I’m photographing my food before I eat it and tweeting about meal plans, and have found a fantastic welcome in the IFBA community. And, after this past weekend in Donegal, I’m even more determined to keep learning about food from the community of bloggers, from the litany of incredible producers we met over the weekend, and from my family, for whose history of food production, cooking and baking I have found a new appreciation.

Some excellent recaps of the weekend have been posted already, and I could write all day and night about every demo, every sample, and especially about the incredible feast we ate on Saturday night. So, in an attempt to contain my waffle, here are some photo highlights, and some lessons from the weekend which will stay with me.


1. Amazing pizza at Darren’s, 2. Juan from Coffee Angel, 3. Dexter beef, 4. The Butchers, 5. Donal introduces Imen, 6. Dexter beef for lunch, 7. David Tiernan of Glebe Brethan, 8. Assorted butters, 9. Beautiful walled garden, 10. Mixed pates & brioche, 11. Fish course, 12. Caroline, Kristin and Donal

Lesson one: Every county in Ireland could do this

David Tiernan of Glebe Brethan gave a talk on Saturday afternoon which made me a very proud Louthwoman. Highlighting some examples of the excellent food produced in the Wee County, he brimmed with pride as he spoke about supporting Irish producers. “Irish is local”, he said, and he’s right. I’d love to see Inishfood being replicated in other counties, and more restaurants committing to supporting local producers as fiercely as Donal Doherty, Raymond Moran and the team at Harrys have. For my part, I’m going to buy Irish (and local) wherever I can, and have already signed up for a Home Organics delivery box, inspired by Aoife of ICanHasCook.


Lesson two: Taking the pledge

I can’t wait to see how the Harrys walled garden looks on my next visit to Donegal. It’s a beautiful space, brimful with promise, and, through the horticultural programmes being organised by Gareth Austin, provides important skills and training to the Inishowen community. So far, I seem not to have inherited my family’s extremely green-fingered genes, nor do I have much space to work with on my tiny apartment balcony. But I am determined now, having taken the GIY Pledge, to have another go at growing herbs, salad greens and maybe even a few spuds with the means I have available, and to be more aware of seasonality when cooking.

Lesson three: Food is the ultimate conversation topic

Aside from the few hours where most of us were asleep, I don’t think there was a single moment of silence all weekend. I remember sitting back at one point during dinner on Saturday and marvelling at the cacophony of conversation in the restaurant – recipes being swapped, restaurant experiences shared, photography recommendations exchanged. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so much passion and interest on display in one room.

As I write, my belly is full of Goatsbridge smoked trout, my fridge is full of curing pork and Glebe Brethan cheese, and my dad is googling stone pizza oven plans. I suspect the Inishfood Effect will continue rippling along for some time yet. Sincere thanks to Alan and Bridgeen at Linsfort Castle, Caroline and Kristin from the IFBA, the mighty Donal Doherty from Harrys, and all the food producers and demo-ers for a magical, inspirational weekend.


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